Orkney’s Old Man of Hoy, a popular spot for climbers since it was first climbed in 1966, is getting a clean-up. Mountaineering Scotland is leading the work to remove old bolts, ropes and pegs and replace them with new, safer equipment. The aim is to make climbs safer and to follow the “leave no trace” ethos. The move is also expected to benefit seabirds that breed in the area by reducing litter and disturbance and encouraging climbers to use predictable routes.
“It’s a mess of old, rotting gear that has been left behind,” according to Mountaineering Scotland’s website. “Many of the fixed belays are made up of rotten tat tied to rotten tat, tied off to rotten bolts. An ascent of the Old Man of Hoy should be a classic adventure, a pilgrimage for UK trad climbers, not a game of abseil roulette following success on the summit.”
A spokesperson for RSPB Scotland, which owns the site, said it welcomed the proposal to remove ropes and other material. “It should also encourage future climbers to use more predictable routes which would reduce disturbance to the birds, as well as making it safer for climbers,” they said.
Access and conservation officer Davie Black said Mountaineering Scotland was aware that the use of bolts and cleaning up rubbish were emotive issues for climbers. A consultation is being run so the organisation can hear climbers’ views on the project.
The 137m (450-foot) sea stack will be cleaned up for safety reasons and to protect wildlife in the area. It is hoped that once the work is finished, the Old Man of Hoy will be climbed more safely and with less risk to the environment
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