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Gareth Ward, the chef behind Wales’ only restaurant holding two Michelin stars, has responded to a recent one-star hygiene rating given to his establishment, Ynyshir Restaurant and Rooms. Located near Machynlleth in Ceredigion, this high-end dining venue charges nearly £500 per guest and was inspected by food safety officers on 5 November. The Food Standards Agency (FSA) assigned a score of one out of five, indicating that “major improvement” is necessary for the restaurant’s food safety management.
Despite this low rating, Ward remains unshaken, emphasizing the unique culinary approach his restaurant takes. He highlighted that Ynyshir works “at the highest standard in the world,” focusing on innovative techniques and the use of raw ingredients that challenge conventional food safety expectations. For example, the restaurant purchases sashimi-grade fish directly from Japan, which was a point of contention during the inspection. Ward explained, “I’m buying sashimi-grade fish from Japan and they’re questioning, ‘well, we don’t know the water, so how do we know it’s sashimi grade?'” He further stated, “Well, it is sashimi grade, this stuff’s eaten raw all over the world and, just because our rules don’t fit their rules, they’re questioning it.” Another unusual practice that drew scrutiny was Ward’s use of a salt chamber to age fish, a method inspectors reportedly disapproved of.
Ynyshir offers a 30-course tasting menu, often featuring elements inspired by global cuisines, particularly Japanese culinary traditions such as sashimi and A5 Wagyu beef. The Michelin Guide describes the dining experience as “a truly unique experience” that spans about five hours, taking guests on “a playful culinary journey around the globe.” The establishment remains the only two-Michelin-starred restaurant in Wales, a distinction it earned in 2022.
Following the FSA inspection, the areas assessed included hygienic food handling, cleanliness and condition of the facilities, and the overall management of food safety. While food handling was rated as “generally satisfactory,” the cleanliness of the building and the management of food safety were found lacking and in need of improvement. Ward acknowledged that some administrative errors in paperwork may have contributed to the poor rating, noting, “Some of our paperwork wasn’t right, and that’s our fault.” He mentioned the challenges of maintaining perfect documentation without full-time administrative support. Since the inspection, Ward stated that substantial investments have been made, including purchasing advanced equipment like a £50,000 freezer capable of reaching -80°C and conducting laboratory testing on the fish, which “all came back absolutely clear.” Additionally, improvements such as installing a handwashing sink in the fish preparation area have been implemented, and a reinspection has been requested, though no date has been set. Ward concluded emphatically, “My restaurant is working at the highest standard in the world and we take what we do very seriously… The kitchen is open, everyone can see everything, the place is immaculate.
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