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The chef behind Wales’ only two-Michelin-starred restaurant has publicly defended his approach to running the kitchen following criticism over food hygiene standards. Ynyshir, which is pursuing a coveted third Michelin star, was given a one-star hygiene rating earlier this year, prompting calls for improvements due to concerns about raw and undercooked food handling.
This development attracted international attention and dealt a blow to the restaurant’s team. However, in the Apple TV documentary series *Knife Edge: Chasing Michelin Stars*, the chef expressed pride in Ynyshir, describing it as “an incredible place.” He emphasized, “There’s nothing in there that’s amateurish. I run a spotless kitchen.” The restaurant co-owner shared how the low hygiene score was painful, especially because the team’s goal is to be the best. He noted that all establishments, whether cafés, pubs, or fine dining venues, must follow the same regulations, adding, “But we go above and beyond everything to make what we do safe.”
Previously, Ynyshir was prohibited from serving raw lobster after the local council in Ceredigion identified “significant hazards” that had not been properly addressed. Since earning its first Michelin star in 2014 and securing a second in 2022—becoming the first restaurant in Wales to achieve this—the venue narrowly missed out on a third star at the latest awards. The intimate 16-seat restaurant features a Japanese-inspired 30-course tasting menu priced at nearly £500 per person, incorporating various raw dishes, which led the team to claim that inspectors did not fully grasp their specialized safety methods.
By August, however, the council restored Ynyshir’s five-star hygiene rating following a reinspection, confirming that the restaurant had resolved all previously identified issues. Despite this, the period of scrutiny was a significant challenge for the team. Reflecting on the experience, the chef expressed frustration on camera, stating, “I’m very proud of my whole team and my business, and what we’ve achieved.” He highlighted the media’s tendency to equate the report with uncleanliness, insisting, “I run a spotless kitchen.” The chef acknowledged that the restaurant, which serves a substantial amount of raw food and employs unconventional techniques, had made some mistakes but argued they were unfairly judged, saying, “It’s just, we dare to be different.” The inspection’s findings concerning food safety management, cleanliness, and facility conditions weighed heavily on him, with over 30 staff members and the business’s future at stake.
The inspectors’ report pointed out issues such as a dirty floor, insufficient hand-washing stations in some areas, and broken equipment posing contamination risks. Responding at the time, Ynyshir described the findings as “a small number of minor issues typical of a busy professional kitchen situated in the countryside of rural Wales,” which had all been promptly and fully corrected. The restaurant also noted that costly biological testing had conclusively demonstrated that their procedures were safe, compliant, and appropriate. Ynyshir expressed its willingness to collaborate constructively with the council but called for a fair, knowledgeable, and consistent assessment process that takes into account the realities of modern, unconventional dining establishments. Following the reinspection, the council confirmed that the restaurant had satisfactorily addressed all concerns raised during the original inspection
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