Wine: Ireland's small but determined wine industry warming up

Wine: Ireland's small but determined wine industry warming up

When thinking of Ireland and its beverages, most people immediately picture a smooth pint of stout or a rich glass of whiskey. Wine seldom comes to mind as a product associated with the country. Yet, the Republic of Ireland holds official recognition as a wine-producing nation by the European Commission. Although only a small number of commercial vineyards exist alongside experimental growers, vineyard acreage on the island is gradually expanding.

One of the largest recent developments is a new winery near Slane, County Meath, which has planted approximately 36,000 vines over 30 hectares—making it the biggest single planting of vines in Ireland to date. Among the pioneers of Irish winemaking is David Llewellyn, who started in the late 1980s by testing several grape varieties to determine which could thrive. He founded Lusca vineyard in County Dublin in 2002 and now produces between 1,500 and 2,000 bottles annually. Llewellyn notes that for many, Irish wine remains a curiosity or novelty, largely because only a few grape varieties like the red rondo and the white Madeline Angevine succeed reliably in Ireland’s unique climate.

Comparing viticulture between Ireland and the UK, Llewellyn points out that Ireland’s conditions are far more extreme, limiting which grape types can be grown. Classic varieties popular in England such as pinot noir and chardonnay do not fare well in Ireland, despite some growers attempting to cultivate them. Llewellyn emphasizes the importance of selecting the right varietals suited to Ireland’s environment and sharing knowledge with emerging winemakers to improve their chances of success.

In County Waterford, David Dennison established Viking Winery in 2009, initially planting 30 rondo vines. His vineyard has since expanded to three and a half hectares, producing 14 different grape varieties including reds, whites, and pet-nat sparkling wines—all hybrids bred for disease resistance and adaptability to the Irish climate. Dennison highlights that their organic, spray-free approach relies heavily on these hybrids, which he believes show great potential for the future of Irish wine. With annual production currently around 2,500 to 3,000 bottles and ambitions to eventually reach 15,000, Dennison is also working to create an Irish winemakers’ association aimed at encouraging transparent practices and collaboration among producers.

Climate change experts see a growing viability for Irish vineyards. Professor John Sweeney points out that increasing summer temperatures and drier conditions could make viticulture more feasible, especially in eastern coastal areas with sandy, well-drained soils. Although expansion across large parts of Ireland is unlikely, certain regions including parts of Northern Ireland may benefit from warmer conditions by the end of the century. Both Llewellyn and Dennison envision a gradually maturing wine industry in Ireland—one that grows carefully to maintain quality and gains broader recognition as more people become aware of its existence and uniqueness

Read the full article from The BBC here: Read More