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As Andy Burnham’s potential move to Downing Street looms closer, a range of significant challenges await him, such as tackling the cost of living crisis, addressing the ongoing conflict in Ukraine, and managing defence funding. Amidst these pressing issues, the former Greater Manchester mayor will also need to consider something less momentous but nevertheless notable: his choice of attire.
Burnham’s clothing has often drawn attention and been the subject of commentary. Notably, during a recent journey from Manchester to London, he changed from his usual casual outfit—dark T-shirt, trousers, and Adidas trainers—to a more traditional suit by the time he arrived at Parliament, even adding a tie before entering the chamber. This wardrobe shift has raised questions about whether it signals a shift in his political image from the informal “Manchester clothes” style, described by Emma Finamore, features editor at Drapers Magazine, as “smart” yet “less formal than other politicians.” Burnham’s fashion sense, often characterized by high-street items like Harrington jackets, Uniqlo polo shirts, and Clarks Wallabees, has been labeled “normcore,” “centrist dad,” and “The Smiths meets Britpop,” representing a conscious break from the conventional suit-and-tie dress code typical in Westminster.
Before 2020, Burnham typically adhered more strictly to formal wear, as seen during his 2015 Labour leadership campaign when he appeared in full suit and tie, contrasting with Jeremy Corbyn’s more casual look. After leaving Westminster to become Greater Manchester mayor, Burnham relaxed his style, saying in a 2022 interview with The Guardian, “I remember, when I left, slowly realising: ‘I don’t have to do this any more.’ What I would have worn to the match at weekends, I just started wearing. It was an evolution and I’m not going back.” His iconic Howick jacket, notably worn during a heated Covid lockdown debate, has even been preserved by Manchester’s People’s History Museum. While Finamore suggests Burnham is savvy enough to navigate formal dress codes when necessary, such as in the House of Commons where the current Speaker Sir Lindsay Hoyle insists on a shirt and tie, she doubts he will adopt the full traditional uniform again. Hoyle has made it clear that casual attire like Burnham’s trademark T-shirt will not be accepted in his chamber.
The significance of clothing in political symbolism is well-established. Historical figures such as Margaret Thatcher and Harold Wilson used their dress to project distinct images: Thatcher’s high-shoulder suits and signature handbag conveyed authority, while Wilson’s utilitarian wardrobe embodied a pragmatic style linked to “cloth-cap” socialism. Political scientist Rob Ford highlights the intense scrutiny female politicians face over their appearance, contrasting it with the relative simplicity of men choosing to wear suits. Yet, despite the importance of image, Burnham has faced some criticism, notably from Conservative leader Kemi Badenoch, who dismissed him as “a pair of eyelashes and a black T-shirt.” Burnham responded humorously by correcting, “It’s not black, it’s dark navy.” In his recent speech as the new Labour leader, Burnham referenced clothing again, saying Labour had worn “too many Tory clothes” previously and signalling his intent to do politics differently. While previous leader Sir Keir Starmer also embraced casual elements in his dress, Professor Ford points out that Burnham’s distinctive wardrobe has resonated more strongly with the public. This blend of approachability and political identity, similar to figures like Nigel Farage who cultivate a relatable image, presents Burnham with the challenge of balancing his down-to-earth style with the formal expectations inherent inside Westminster, especially during an era when political image is highly visual and influential
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