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Food critic Giles Coren has argued that Michelin-starred establishments should not be held to the same health and safety regulations as other restaurants. His comments followed the news that Ynyshir Restaurant and Rooms, a two-Michelin-starred venue in Machynlleth, Ceredigion, received a hygiene rating of just one out of five after an inspection on 5 November. According to the Food Standards Agency (FSA), this low score indicates major improvements are necessary, which raised eyebrows given the restaurant’s high-end status and premium pricing of nearly £500 per guest.
Coren, who dined at Ynyshir in 2022, suggested that establishments of this caliber operate in a “different sort of world.” Speaking on BBC Radio 4’s World at One programme, he remarked on the unique cooking environment at such restaurants. “It is not little kitchens and pots boiling away, mimsy little things being placed on plates,” he explained. “He is cooking with fire… He stands there in his leather apron and it’s roaring like fireworks.” He also mentioned the prevalence of raw dishes prepared using Japanese techniques, such as sushi. For these reasons, Coren believes that conventional health and safety rules “should probably be modernised,” noting that typical concerns over food storage and cross-contamination do not neatly apply in these settings.
However, Coren’s stance met with criticism from the Chartered Institute of Environmental Health (CIEH), which emphasized the importance of food hygiene laws irrespective of a restaurant’s exclusivity or culinary approach. The institute warned that Coren’s views might convey the mistaken idea that hygiene standards are subjective or outdated. Una Kane, chairwoman of the CIEH’s food advisory panel, expressed disappointment in Coren’s comments, stating, “No dining experience, however unusual or exclusive, sits outside the law.” Kane highlighted that food hygiene standards are critical for protecting the public and that no business should consider itself exempt from legal requirements. In Wales, where Ynyshir operates, it is mandatory for eateries to publicly display their hygiene ratings, signaling transparency and accountability.
Ynyshir’s hygiene rating signaled that the restaurant currently falls below minimum legal standards, according to the CIEH. Kane rejected the notion that inspections are mere formalities, emphasizing their role in ensuring safe handling and preparation of food. She also acknowledged the restaurant’s cooperation with local health officials to address the identified issues. Meanwhile, Chef Gareth Ward, who has appeared as a judge on MasterChef: The Professionals, stated he was unashamed of Ynyshir’s hygiene score. The restaurant itself affirmed it was working to maintain “the highest standard in the world” while pioneering distinctive approaches to using raw ingredients and techniques
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